The first time I came across a picture of the Umngot River, I assumed it was a fake. It seemed to me as if the boats were not on the water but were floating in the air or on some kind of invisible glass. In fact, it made me go to Dawki in the Jaintia Hills of Meghalaya, India, to see the river with my own eyes and find out the truth about it. It took me a long time to get there through the winding roads of the Khasi and Jaintia Hills, but when I got to the riverbank, the real situation was even better than the photo. To me, the water looked as clear as if the riverbed, stones, and fish were right under my hand, and the wooden boats appeared to be actually floating over them. This clarity, which is the core of Dawki, is a place where nature is at its most beautiful and most awe-inspiring.
About Dawki
Dawki is located at the border between India and Bangladesh. The Umngot River is the main reason why it is popular all over the world. The river is considered to be the cleanest one among those in Asia, and this comes across as a very rare occurrence in today’s world.
The first thing you see when you get to the riverbank is the impact. The water has a captivating color, which can be described as both emerald and jade, and the visibility goes so far that the riverbed looks like a very well-kept garden under the water. It is this absolute clarity that makes the boats appear to be flying while at the same time they can cast their very distinct and perfect shadows on the rocks lying at the bottom, twenty feet or so below. I was soon made aware that the main reason for the existence of the Dawki tourists is to just stand and watch this water wonder.
Nothing but a ride on the local river can give you a real perception of the Umngot. The nice men who row the boats, mostly from the indigenous Khasi and Jaintia tribes, are happy to take you out for a short journey, which is usually between 30 minutes and one hour.
- Floating on Glass: It will appear to you that the pebbles are so close that you might accidentally scrape your hand on them, while your small, wooden boat moves away from the riverside and you keep looking down from the side. The boat ride is a surreal experience, creating an optical illusion that is unique to the Dawki River.
- Boating to the Bridge: The journey by boat usually takes you to the vicinity of the suspension bridge, which was constructed by the British in 1932. This bridge is a vital point for crossing and offers a beautiful contrast between the clean, old river underneath and the colonial bridge that spans it.
- The Border Experience: The Umngot River is actually an international border in nature. While you slowly move with the current, your boatman will show you the border pillars and maybe even Bangladeshi fishermen that you will see on the other side. This geographical oddity adds a layer of fascination to the already stunning landscape of the Dawki River.
While Dawki's beauty can't be denied, you have to plan your trip carefully if you want to get there, especially if you are going to travel in Meghalaya from one place to another.
Shillong to Dawki Distance
Generally, the first point of the trip is Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya. The distance between Shillong and Dawki is near about 85-90 kilometers.
How to Get There
There are several ways for you to cover the distance to the Dawki River:
- By Taxi: The most comfortable way to get from Shillong to Dawki is to use a private taxi. It takes about two and a half to three hours and gives you the opportunity of making stopovers at interesting places like Mawlynnong (the cleanest village in Asia) on your way.
- Shared Taxis/Buses: There are also more economical alternatives that begin from Shillong's Bara Bazaar and are available for you. The traveling time is longer, and there is less flexibility in these means of transport.
The trip itself is a real treat to the eyes, especially the part when you are going down to the plains. Keep your eyes on the Dawki River direction signs when you come near the border area, and also be aware that the traffic can sometimes be quite heavy due to the border crossing activities. The road that links Shillong to Dawki is well-maintained and is a feast for the eyes.
More Than Just the River
While the Umngot is practically the heart and soul of Dawki and the reason for its popularity, there are a few other local tourist spots that complement the experience.
- Mawlynnong Village: A stop here is almost always mandatory. Being the cleanest village in Asia, Mawlynnong provides a stunning and authentic experience of the Khasi culture and the eco-friendly way of life.
- Balancing Rock: This one-of-a-kind landmark is a rock formation that, due to its location near Mawlynnong, features a huge rock almost balanced on a tiny one.
- Dawki Village (The Town): The real Dawki village is a lively, albeit a little rugged, trading hub which owes its existence to the fact that the place is at the international border. The town mainly revolves around the trade between India and Bangladesh. The major attraction here is definitely the river and the surrounding natural area, not the town itself.
The Best Time for Dawki Tourism
Best Time: The months after monsoon and winter, mainly from October to April, are the best time to see the Umngot with maximum clarity. The water level during this time is low, and transparency is at its highest, thus making it appear like the boats are actually floating in the air. Monsoon: The monsoon time (June to September) is when the region sees its heaviest rainfall. While the hills around get greener, the river's water level also increases by a large amount, thus more silt comes into the water, and the density will temporarily go down. So, if you want to see the "floating boats" illusion, then don't be there during the monsoon.
A Note on Preservation
Once you go to Dawki, you are part of the experience, and it is important that you respect both the people and the environment. Partly, due to the efforts of the local people, the Umngot River is one of the few rivers that have kept their spectacular purity. As Dawki tourism visitors, we also have a part in the mission to keep it this way. Don't throw your garbage anywhere, follow the local manners, and be sure that the future generations will also see this floating dream of a river.
Conclusion
The trip to Dawki is, in fact, a must-do to see one of the most visually stunning tricks of Mother Nature. It is a place that not only changes your perception of the color green but also demonstrates that rolls can indeed look like they are flying. Dawki has that special power to imprint itself deeply into your memory right from the time you witness the crystal waters of the Umngot, then the border, and finally the quaint villages around. If you are after pure visual magic, then I can’t think of a better way than to take the trip. The Dawki river, along with its breathtaking clarity, is here to reception you.
