I recall a time when I first saw a photo of Maya Bay. The limestone cliffs that looked like they were taken right out of a fairy tale, the water that looked like it had been carved out of jade, the sand that looked like it had been made by nature’s own white glove. It was the very definition of a tropical dream, the kind of place that would inspire thousands of travel blogs. That bay, of course, is just a stone's throw away from Koh Phi Phi Island, the most popular island group in the Andaman Sea of Thailand.
However, as we all know, fame is not always a good thing, especially in the case of travel. Is it still the pristine paradise that we saw in The Beach, or has the heavy influx of tourists turned it into a crowded theme park? I made a trip there to see for myself, dealing with the crowds, the boats, and the noise, to find out if the reality of Koh Phi Phi Island is still as good as the legend. What I gather is? It's a bit of a mixed bag, but absolutely unmissable, if you know how to get around the hype.
Where is Koh Phi Phi located?
Before anything else, let’s understand where the place is. When people mention "Phi Phi," they typically mean a group of six islands with the main focus being two: the inhabited Koh Phi Phi Don and the smaller, uninhabited Koh Phi Phi Leh (the location of Maya Bay). In terms of location, they are in the Andaman Sea and are a part of the Krabi Province of Southern Thailand. From the places of Phuket and Krabi, they are almost at the same distance, so it is quite easy to get there from either side. It is their ideal situation that not only makes the islands very attractive but also very busy.
Quick background on the Phi Phi Islands
These islands are absolutely gorgeous and awe-inspiring in their appearance, being made up of towering limestone karst mountains that look like they are coming straight out of the blue-green sea. They became widely known internationally because of the movie The Beach, which was shot in Maya Bay on Phi Phi Leh. The stardom resulted in massive tourism inflow and, consequently, the major portion of the environmental damage. After being extremely overcrowded for years, Maya Bay was closed to visitors for an extended period, thus letting its ecology recover. This shutdown and the following regulated reopening a signs of how valuable and how delicate the beauty of Koh Phi Phi Don is.
Arriving on the island
I got to Koh Phi Phi Don by ferry from Krabi. As the ferry came into the main area, Tonsai Bay, the very first thing that struck me was not the beauty but the ruckus. Long-tail boats, speedboats, and ferries are all vying for space in Tonsai Bay, whereas the narrow piece of land that connects the two big rocks is a maze of guesthouses, dive shops, and cafes. It's bustling, sure, but peaceful? No.
You are quite literally confronted with the fact that Tonsai has been designed for tourism. Although it is comfortable, it is a blow to your system if you had anticipated an immaculate nature. However, I didn't waste much time in Tonsai before I found my way to the more serene side of the island, where the charm gradually returned. The thing is that the major part of your stay will be in and around Tonsai Bay and the neighboring Loh Dalum Bay, where the infamous party scene is located.
What to do during your stay?
The great thing about Phi Phi is that it can cater to all kinds of people with its wide range of activities. One can choose from extreme sports to complete relaxation.
1. The Essential Koh Phi Phi Island Tour
No one can talk about Phi Phi without mentioning this in the first place. A long-tail boat must, preferably early in the morning, be hired to visit the islands around you. Only in this way can you get the full geological drama. You explore Viking Cave, go snorkel in places such as Monkey Beach, and definitely pay a visit to Maya Bay. Keep in mind that even though Maya Bay is stunning, visiting there is very restricted in order to allow it to recover.
2. Viewpoint Hike
If you want the absolute best photo view, then you should definitely hike up the hill to the Phi Phi Viewpoint. The journey is exhausting due to the sweat, and it takes around half an hour, but the prize is huge: a gorgeous panoramic view of the island's narrow, isthmus waist, with Tonsai Bay on one side and Loh Dalum Bay on the other. That view alone instantly makes the trip worthwhile.
3. Diving and Snorkeling
The area surrounding the island is a paradise for marine life. If you are a certified diver, then you will find multiple dive schools to be of top-notch quality. In case you are only a snorkeler, then you still have the coral reefs to look vibrant, and the water clarity will be excellent most of the time.
4. Island Hopping
Though the primary island is good for fun, a trip to Bamboo Island (Koh Pai) or Mosquito Island (Koh Yung) will provide you with a much quieter and untouched beach experience. These are the right medicines for the Tonsai crowd.
5. Nightlife
In case you were looking for some crazy things to do in Phi Phi Island, then Loh Dalum Bay is the place to be. What to expect are fire shows on the beach, music playing till late, and a generally wild, youthful atmosphere. However, if you are a couple seeking for peace, then you'd better stay on the other side of the island.
How long should you stay on Phi Phi Island?
Three or two nights would be a perfect time, in my opinion, to stay on Koh Phi Phi Don. Day one is absolutely not enough to get past the hustle of Tonsai Bay.
- Day 1: Show up, relax, accomplish the Viewpoint hike, and get familiar with the area. Take the evening at your leisure in Loh Dalum Bay if you are a fan of the party scene.
- Day 2: Mandatory Koh Phi Phi island tour to Phi Phi Leh and nearby places. This is a day-long commitment. It is the answer to the question of what to do in Phi Phi Island for 2 days: focusing entirely on the water.
- Day 3: Chill out at a quiet beach, go diving, or take a half-day trip to Bamboo Island, and then catch your ferry in the afternoon to the next place.
Short Koh Phi Phi Itinerary
My quick visit was all about me coming here, going straight to the viewpoint for sunset, doing a private longtail boat trip around all the key bays for a full day, and spending my last morning snorkeling off a quiet beach before leaving. This way, I was able to see the famous sights and the beauty without being sucked into the party vortex.
How to Get to Phi Phi and Moving Around
Traveling to Phi Phi is convenient since the distance between Phi Phi Island and Phuket is not that far. So, most of the travelers take either a ferry or a speedboat from Phuket or Krabi to get to the island. The traveling time varies from 1.5 hours to 2.5 hours based on the kind of boat and the port of departure.
Koh Phi Phi Don, however, is a car-free and motorbike-free island. You can do all your movements on foot. The central village is minimal and comfortable for a walk. If you're at a secluded Koh Phi Phi island resort outside of Tonsai, you will be dependent on longtail boat taxis for your transportation, which may increase your daily expenses.
Besides the Phi Phi, are there any other options?
If you think the crowd is going to be unbearable, then there are alternatives to consider that have the same geological beauty but have fewer tourists. For example, you can go to Railay Beach near Krabi, which is mainly known for rock climbing and beautiful beaches, or choose to stay on the island of Koh Lanta if you want a relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere. Those are great options if you still want to enjoy that iconic Krabi karst scenery but without the extreme crowd at Tonsai. However, the downside of these places compared to Phi Phi is that they don't have the same vibrant and concentrated energy.
Is Phi Phi really worth a visit? My point of view
Absolutely, Phi Phi is a place that one should visit, but it is important that you keep your expectations in check. It is not a peaceful and quiet place that few people know of; rather, it is a noisy, popular, and sometimes chaotic tourist area. Nevertheless, the natural beauty is so overpowering, so breathtaking, that it rises above the crowd. The experience of seeing nature from the viewpoint, the enormity of the limestone cliffs while on the Koh Phi Phi don tour, and the sensation of water immersion in those amazing seas are experiences that can't be compared to anything else.
I am not saying that you should just ignore it. What you should do, however, is to visit with a proper plan: you should make your tour reservations early so that you can be the first and not have to wait in line, if you want to have peace, then don't go to the main Tonsai area, and lastly, spend most of your time in the water. By doing this, you will realize that the story of Koh Phi Phi Island is still very much alive, and it is there waiting for you to be amazed.
